Category: Getting Started

How to set up Home Assistant ( as a home automation hub

Now that you have set up the hardware and flashed the software for running your hub, you need to configure both Home Assistant software and the Raspberry Pi OS.


  • Login to the first time
  • Login to your Raspberry Pi via SSH
  • Change the default password right now!!!!
  • Enable VNC for GUI-based access to your Raspberry Pi
  • Change basic security settings on your Raspberry Pi

Login to the first time

You will now log into from your browser window. The trick now is to figure out what IP address has been assigned to your Raspberry Pi. Unfortunately, there is not a single, consistent to do this. The process will be different depending on your network hardware and how you connected your Raspberry Pi to the network (wired vs. wireless). You will need to login to your router to figure out what IP address. The reason for this is that your router will assign an IP address to the Raspberry Pi that you plugged into it, but you cannot predict what that IP address will be. After getting logged in, though, we can assign a static IP address going forward, to ensure it is always the same, but the first time, we will have to ask the router what IP address was assigned.

If you are using Ubiquiti hardware and Unifi software to run your home network (in my opinion, a fantastic option and one I will cover in more detail in a future post), you can login to your Unifi controller, then navigate to the “Clients” page to see all of the devices on your home network.

Initially, the “name” column may be something else (like the MAC address or a random name. You can look at the Device Vendor column to see that the manufacturer is “Raspberr” to determine that, indeed, this is your Raspberry Pi. Mine is set on (this is my IP address inside my home network, yours is very likely to be different, make a note of the IP address, you will need it later).

Naturally, I recommend you rename this device right now so that it is easy to identity in the future. Note also that I have plugged my Raspberry Pi directly into my wired network (LAN) instead of using the wireless connection. This is to maximize the speed my Raspberry Pi can respond to other devices on the network (specifically Pihole), but there is nothing wrong with setting it up on the wireless network if you prefer.

Now that we know the IP address, we can open a browser and navigate to (port 8123 is the default port that is set up to listen to). If you have set up everything correctly, you will see the home screen.

Yours will not be this complicated starting out. I have added lots of sensors, switches, controls, plugins, etc to my system. I will detail how I have set up all of these various systems in future blog posts.

The important thing is that you got this far!

Login to your Raspberry Pi via SSH

Now that you know you have a working setup, you need to be able to login to the actual OS that is installed on your Raspberry Pi.

Earlier, you found the IP address for your Raspberry Pi in your router’s clients page. We will use that IP address to login to the OS.

In Windows, installPutty. Putty is a free SSH client for Windows. You will use it to login to the command prompt for your Raspberry Pi. Don’t worry if you are not comfortable always working on the command line, I will walk you through setting up VNC so you can have a GUI interface to the Raspberry Pi.

Many things in both the Raspberry Pi and Home Assistant can be configured via the GUI, but many things cannot. You will be most effective and will be able to configure the system exactly to your liking if you begin to learn and be comfortable with the command line (specifically, the Linux shell Bash).

Open Putty and enter the following configuration values:

  • Host Name (or IP address) – IP address of your Raspberry Pi, example:
  • Port – 22 (the default for SSH connections)
  • Connection Type – SSH

Click Open. The first time you do this, you will be asked for the username you wish to login with. By default, the Raspberry Pi has a user called “pi” with a password of “raspberry“. Don’t be shocked (this password is well-known), we are going to change this right away. If you are not familiar with Putty, you can “copy” a string to your Windows clipboard (highlight the raspberry string, right-click and select Copy, use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+C, etc) and “paste” it by right-clicking in the Putty command window. You will not see any change since it is a password, but you can now press the Enter key and and it will log you in.

Congratulations! You are now a l33t h4ck32!.

Change the default password right now!!!!

I cannot stress this enough. The default password for the Raspberry Pi is raspberry. This is extremely well known and you must not leave it as the default or your system will get hacked by automated scanning tools that are constantly scanning all IP addresses and trying all well-known logins.

Don’t worry yet, though, your home network is an isolated bubble. You router is presenting a single IP address to the Internet (assigned by your Internet Service Provider, ISP). Your router is providing a local, internal network that all of your devices connect to. The IP address range for internal networks is typically 10.x.x.x, 172.16.x.x or 192.168.x.x. Your router is “protecting” your internal network and not broadcasting what the internal IP addresses of your devices are. Therefore, when automated tools try to login, they are blocked because they cannot ping the actual IP addresses of your devices, just the router (another good reason to change the default password on your router’s administration page as well).

However, you shouldn’t rely on just your router to protect you. You may decide to make your Raspberry Pi available on the Internet (though I will show you a different way to do this with a VPN) so you can access it remotely. You will definitely need to have set a different password to help ensure you do not get hacked.

Some sites will recommend changing the default username as well since pi is so well known. However, I have had several services on my Raspberry Pi break over the years because they expect the “pi” user to exist (not the best coding practice to expect a certain username to exist, but it happens). Therefore, I am not advocating changing the username at this time.

In addition, the best way to lock down your Raspberry Pi is via a SSH key, but I have not done this yet. I will update this post in the future when I have set this login type myself.

I highly recommend you store your username and password in a password management system (to help encourage you to generate strong passwords and not re-use passwords over and over again). I recommend you use LastPass (affiliate link), but there are numerous other ones that are good too.

As stated on the Raspberry Pi’s documentation page, here is how you change your password.

  • Login to your Raspberry Pi via SSH (Putty)
  • Type in passwd and press Enter
  • Enter your existing password (raspberry) and press Enter
  • Enter your new password and press Enter
  • Enter your new password again and press Enter
  • You will see “passwd: password updated successfully”

Enable VNC for GUI-based access to your Raspberry Pi

The vast majority of my examples going forward can be accomplished using just the SSH connection and the Bash shell on the Raspberry Pi. However, you may also want a GUI to more easily perform administration of your Raspberry Pi (some things are just easier with a GUI).

By default, your Raspberry Pi will not have a way to remote login to a GUI (you would have to plug an external monitor into the HDMI port to see the GUI. Therefore, you must install a remote desktop client.

In my opinion, the VNC Viewer is the easiest and best way to remote desktop from your Windows PC to your Raspberry Pi. VNC is free for home (non-commercial use) for up to 5 remote computers and 3 users.

You will need to do 2 installs, one of the VNC Viewer on your Windows PC and one on the Raspberry Pi of the VNC Server.

As stated on the Raspberry Pi documentation page, here are the instructions for how to install & set up.

Raspberry Pi

  • Login to your Raspberry Pi via SSH (Putty)
  • Type in sudo apt-get update and press Enter
    • sudo is the command in Linux to temporarily elevate your privileges so you can do privileged tasks like install new software
    • apt-get is the command in Linux (the Ubuntu/Debian distribution, specifically) to install a package via the built-in package system. APT makes is extremely simple to install, update & uninstall software from your Linux OS.
    • update is to ensure you have the latest of all installed packages before you continue (having outdated packages is often the cause of failed installations and running of software)
  • Type in sudo apt-get install realvnc-vnc-server realvnc-vnc-viewerand press Enter
    • This will install both the VNC server & viewer
  • Type in sudo raspi-config and press Enter
    • This will open the configuration options for your Raspberry Pi
  • Press the Down arrow key until you get to Interfacing Options and press Enter
  • Press the Down arrow key until you get to VNC and press Enter
  • Use the Left or Right arrow key and select Yes and press Enter
  • Press the Enter key to confirm that VNC Server is enabled


  • Download the VNC Viewer for Windows and install it
  • Run VNC Viewer from the Start Menu
  • Type in the IP address of your Raspberry Pi and press Enter
  • The first time you login, you will be asked for the username (pi) and the password you set when you changed it
  • If successful, you will see the Linux GUI that is installed on your Raspberry Pi

Change basic security settings on your Raspberry Pi

At this point, you have a basic Raspberry Pi server set up. You must now decide how much effort you want to put into securing your system. The Raspberry Pi documentation does a great job giving you several options for how to secure your Raspberry Pi. At this time, I won’t recommend you do any specific settings (since they will be a whole other article), but feel free to add them as you see fit at this time.

As long as you keep your Raspberry Pi inside your local network and do not expose it to the Internet directly, you are relatively protected by your router & its firewall. However, you must set up more protection if you expose your Raspberry Pi to the Internet.

Congratulations! You now have a working home automation hub setup and ready for some automations!

How to set up your Raspberry Pi as a home automation server

Now that you have agreed with my previous article, you have selected Home Assistant as your home automation hub! Congratulations!

A key idea you have to understand is that you will be running your hub software on a server. Don’t let the name scare you, it is just a computer that will be running all the time. It has to be running all the time to ensure it can communicate with your smart home devices and can run your home automations.

You now have to make a major choice. Do you want to run Home Assistant as a Docker container inside a specially created environment ( or on a traditional Linux installation (Hassbian)? This is the crucial choice because the versions of Home Assistant installed in Hass.IO & Hassbian are different.

Even though there are instructions to do so, you do not want to try to run Home Assistant on Windows. There will be too many incompatibilities and the vast majority of the documentation will assume you are running in a Linux environment. Even if you are not very familiar with Linux, the basic commands are relatively simple to understand. In addition, if you are running Home Assistant as (which you should be), you will not be on the Linux command line very often anyway.

I made the mistake when I first began with Home Assistant to run the Hassbian option. This is because I was under the mistaken assumption that I wanted to manage the underlying Linux infrastructure myself (I had already set up Pi-hole and I didn’t understand that I could run it as a plugin in

However, it became clear after a few weeks of running Home Assistant under Hassbian that it was sub-optimal. I had to manually update Home Assistant on the Linux command line. I had to enable the virtual environment to configure it. I could not take advantage of the many excellent plugins that have been developed for that make configuration much easier.

Therefore, I only recommend you go the route. is the preferred and easiest way to install and run Home Assistant. This takes advantage of Docker to run both Home Assitant and all the additional plugins you will want to run to have the most functional & flexible environment possible.

Docker is a technology called “containerization”. As the name implies, a Docker container contains all of the code & dependencies that a piece of software needs to run. The big advantage of Docker over just installing software on your computer is the “dependencies” part. In the past, ensuring you had the right versions of either .so files or .dll files was terrible (DLL Hell). Docker ensures that all of the code you need is available and isolated from all other processes running on your computer. This ensures reliable installation, updates & running of your application. has been specially designed to run Home Assistant and many plugins using Docker.

Hardware & Software needed to set up your Raspberry Pi

As I suspect many of you do, I run Windows 10 on my primary computer at home. Naturally, this is because it has the best games! However, my primary PC is not used to host my Home Assistant software. It is also not turned on except when I am playing a game, writing blog posts or my wife is using it edit maternity & newborn photos.

Therefore, you will need some crucial hardware & software to bridge the gap between your Windows PC & your Linux machine. Obviously, you may not need all the hardware or software I needed; mix & match as needed (affiliate links below).


  • Raspberry Pi – Hosts your Home Assistant installation. I recommend you buy the latest model with the most CPU you can get. Home Assistant is a Python based system and needs plenty of CPU power to run the interpreter. The best version you can buy as of the time of this writing is the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+. This technically has more feature than you need (built-in Bluetooth, HDMI port, camera port, 40-pin GPIO headers, etc). These features, while very cool and useful for other projects, will not help you with this home automation setup since you will be running the Raspberry Pi as a server and remoting into it from your PC.
  • Samsung Evo Plus 32GB MicroSD card – Stores the OS and configuration files for your Raspberry Pi. Your Raspberry Pi package is very likely to contain a MicroSD card already (so you can easily get started). However, I recommend you buy a higher-quality SD card. Flash memory is “volatile”, no pun intended, and these cards are being written to constantly. Eventually, I will migrate to a different storage medium, but for now, a better MicroSD card will do.
  • MicroSD card reader – Copies the image from your Windows PC (where you will download it to initially) to your MicroSD card. Note that the reader I have linked to is a USB 3 model. This makes it more futureproof, but it will require more hardware to work on most Windows PCs.
  • USB Type C female to USB 3 male adapter – Converts from USB 3 on the MicroSD card reader to my traditional Windows PC with its USB Type C ports. This would not be needed if you select a MicroSD card reader that can already be plugged into your computer (either because you have a USB 3 port or because you pick a different reader). It was needed in my case (and surprisingly hard to Google for).
  • Short Ethernet patch cable – Connects your Raspberry Pi to your home network. I recommend you plug it in directly to the router instead of taking advantage of the WiFi network. This will make your network connection to the Raspberry Pi faster and more reliable (in addition, if you are running Pi-hole, you want a fast network connection to the DNS server running on the Raspberry Pi).


  • balenaEtcher – Will “flash” the image of you will copy down from the Internet from your Windows PC to your MicroSD card.
  • VNC Viewer – Log into the Raspberry Pi’s GUI from your Windows PC.
  • Putty – Log into the Raspberry Pi in a “headless” (no GUI mode). This is much faster than using the Raspberry Pi’s GUI, but you may be more comfortable using the Terminal window on the Raspberry Pi.

Flashing & plugging in your Raspberry Pi

Now that you have purchased the hardware & downloaded all of the needed software, you can get started.

  • Remove your Raspberry Pi from the box. If you purchased the Canakit version, it will also come with a great case to protect the delicate electrical components.
  • Remove the MicroSD card (or open the new MicroSD card you bought) and plug it into the MicroSD card reader that is plugged into your Windows PC. If prompted, select Open Files for what to do with media like this.
  • Open balenaEtcher to flash the MicroSD card with the image you have downloaded from the website.
  • Click on “Select image” and navigate to where you downloaded the image (most likely, the C:\Users\<your ID>\Downloads directory) and select the image (most likely, hassos_rpi3-2.10.img.gz). Click Open.
  • Most likely, Etcher will automatically figure out that it should select your USB 3.0 device to write to. If not, select “Change” and select your MicroSD writer.
  • Click “Flash!” to copy the image from your Windows PC to the MicroSD card. Note that this will overwrite anything already on the MicroSD card. If you recycled an existing MicroSD card you already had, you will lose anything that was on it. The image you downloaded is a complete OS and filesystem.
  • On the Windows taskbar, on the right-hand side of the screen, click on the Up arrow on the System Tray (where the clock is). You want to left-click on the USB device and select “Safely remove hardware and eject media” to ensure Windows finishes writing anything to the memory and cleanly removes it. Click “Eject”. I have had a few memory cards fail over the years due to Windows not being done with them before I yanked the card out, so I always eject.
  • Carefully install the MicroSD card back into your Raspberry Pi. You do not have to push hard to do this.
  • Install the Raspberry Pi carefully in its case. You must be careful with the exposed MicroSD to not damage it (slip the MicroSD card into the slot provided in the case. Now you can install the rest of the case.
  • Finally, plug your Raspberry Pi into power and your router via the Ethernet patch cable.

The next post will explain how to connect & configure on your Raspberry Pi.

Deciding on a home automation system

The first step to building your own home automation system is deciding what the major components will be. There are so many choices and so many different vendors that it can be overwhelming to decide what to do first.

I believe the right philosophy is to standardize of a few key technologies and build out using those. I have included affiliate links to the various pieces of hardware I have purchased and am using in my own home.

Some of the major technologies you need to decide on are:

  • What hardware will I use?
  • What hub will I use to control “all the things”?
  • What wireless communication protocol will I use?

Summary (i.e. get this)


The most important decision is what hub you will use to control your home automation. This is the most important decision because it will drive every other decision. You will have to decide what your goals are, how flexible the hub software is, how many integrations the hub has with 3rd party components and what kind of support you expect from the vendor.

Some of the major hubs are:

There are some additional hubs out there, but a key issue with them is the lack of integrations or lack of long term sustainability. A key place this could bite you is if the vendor decides to shut down support for their hub. This will kill future integrations and may completely shut down your home automation (if the hub depends on services the vendor must provide, like a cloud-based server). An example of this is the Lowe’s Iris system.

In my case, I wanted an open source system that was not dependent on any one vendor. This is mostly because I am software developer, so I have no fear of having to dig into the guts of the software and make tweaks (just ask my wife how many times I have had to dive into the PHP of her WordPress site to fix some odd bug!). The open source model helps ensure that the platform has long-term staying power because it is maintained by deeply interested people who work on it out of their free time. This also increases the likelihood of integrations working no matter what vendor is involved. Naturally, Amazon, Google & Apple don’t really want integrations between their various ecosystems because it is in their interest to keep you locked into their platform.

Therefore, for the ability to tinker with and see the source code, to increase the likelihood of long-term sustainability and have maximum integrations, I choose Home Assistant.


You will have to decide what hardware you want to use to host your hub. In many cases, this will be decided for you (Alexa runs on an Alexa device like Echo). For Home Assistant, you will have to decide what hardware to run your hub on. The most common configuration is to run it on a Raspberry Pi. You can easily buy any number of Raspberry Pi kits, I choose a kit made by Canakit, which makes many different kits for different use cases. I ended up buying a kit on Amazon, since I already had a Prime membership

Wireless communication

Finally, you will have to decide what wireless communications protocol you will want to use for your home automation equipment. Unless you are doing new construction, running lots of wires throughout your walls is probably not in the cards. Therefore, you will need wireless communication.

Many of the smart home devices you can buy tout their WiFi capabilities. This is supposed to be seen as a feature. I see this as a bug. WiFi was not meant to be used to handle the dozens of wireless communications of simple home automation equipment. Most people’s home routers cannot handle more than a few dozen clients (Linksys actually sets this at 50). You typically don’t want that many clients anyway, not without more substantial wireless hardware (Ubiquiti is my preferred home networking system and I will write a later blog post explaining why and how I have their equipment set up in my house).

Obviously, the industry has been dealing with this for a lot longer than the recent Smart Home craze, so there are 2 primary wireless protocols that are used, Z-Wave and Zigbee. Both of these are low power, wireless protocols that can be used to control smart home devices. Many vendors, in fact, sell different versions of their products that support one or the other. In general, I don’t see a compelling reason to choose one over the other; you can decide which one you prefer based upon the devices you would like to control. Z-Wave, in my mind, has better industry support and standardization, so that is the protocol I chose for my smart home devices. This is not to say that I won’t ever use Zigbee. I may eventually come up with a compelling use case or device, but I haven’t had to yet.

Therefore, you must have an antenna connected to your hub that can send and receive your given protocol. Many of the commercial hubs have this antenna already built in. In my case, since I went with the open-source Home Assistant system, I had to buy a separate Z-Wave USB stick to plug into my Raspberry Pi. I choose the Aeotec Z-Wave Gen 5 USB stick.